The Mausoleum of Hadrian (Castel Sant’Angelo) is probably one of the most underrated sites in Rome. I remember seeing this the first night in Rome the first time I visited almost a decade ago. I really wanted to go inside, but the time constraints prevented me. This time, Angela and I climbed all the way to the top and it was grand and haunting. The views were gorgeous and the castle was massive. But seeing some of the prison cells had me feeling claustrophobic, thinking about some of the people who were held captive in the tight, almost closet-like space. Near the top, there’s a museum full of soldier uniforms and weapons. It kind of reminded me of that Fallout line, “War, war never changes.” Well, the weapons do.